DOWNTOWN DURHAM
Not so many years ago, longtime Bull City denizens will tell you, you didn’t go downtown after dark. That’s no longer the case, not by a long shot. The last decade or so has seen an unbridled renaissance, with downtown Durham becoming a thriving hub for foodies and culture, a destination for folks from all over the Triangle. There’s something for everybody, from high-end concerts to DIY showslike someone crammed all of a big city’s amenities into downtown’s relatively small confines. Downtown ain’t what it used to be, and for that we’re grateful.
One of our favorites
Saltbox Seafood Joint
919-908-8970; saltboxseafoodjoint.com
If you drive by too quickly, you’ll miss itand you don’t want to do that. Every morning, Saltbox proprietor Ricky Moore gets a delivery of fresh, never frozen, regional seafood, then quickly deep-fries it up until it’s gone, still juicy and not overwhelmed by grease. Expect a hefty wait come lunchtime, but you’ll keep going back regardless. Saltbox piles on with the fried shrimp plate, pairs its seasonal softshell crab with a wonderful aioli, and packs its fried catfish into a fresh roll topped with slaw. With only the freshest seafood around, Saltbox never disappoints.
EAT
Bagel Bar
104 City Hall Plaza, #101;919-294-6661; bagelbarbagels.com
A little slice of New York City right across the street from City Hall. The Bagel Bar, already a Chapel Hill staple, made a Bull City addition, where it’s serving up bagel sandwiches all day long.
Beyú Caffé
341 West Main Street; 919-683-1058;beyucaffe.com
Stop by Beyù (pronounced be you) for any combination of drinks, coffee, food (from breakfast through dinner), and live music you want. At its core, the cafe is a jazz club inside of a coffee shop inside of a bar inside of a restaurant, all wrapped up in an unequivocally cool atmosphere.
Bull City Burger and Brewery
107 East Parrish Street #105;919-680-2333;bullcityburgerandbrewery.com
Some of the freshest meat patties in town can be found at Bull City Burger. The restaurant and brewery makes almost everything in-house and works with local farmers to get produce. Pair a burger and fries with a Bull’s IPA and you’ve got a perfect meal.
Bull McCabes Irish Pub
427 West Main Street; 919-682-3061;bullmccabesirishpub.com
There’s no denying that Bull McCabes fills a void in the Bull City, with traditional Irish pub fare and plenty of Guinness to sip on. The large yard offers plenty of space to sprawl out and drink away the day, and there’s plenty of TVs showing whatever games are on.
Counting House at 21C
111 North Corcoran Street;919-956-6760; countinghousenc.com
The art gallery at 21c is always free and open to the public, but dinner at the Counting House restaurant and bar downstairs is the boutique hotel’s pricey attraction. Get the charred okra and an Old-Fashioned, then check out the transparent bathroom stalls. (Don’t forget to lock the door.)
Dame’s Chicken and Waffles
919-682-9235; dameschickenwaffles.com
If loving chicken and waffles is wrong, we don’t want to be right. You won’t leave hungry, but you will wait in line.
Dashi
415 East Chapel Hill Street;919-251-9335; dashiramen.com
If ramen isn’t your thing, venture upstairs to Dashi’s izakaya to enjoy smaller plates and late-night snacks while you sip sake. But if ramen is your thing, you’re in luckfrom meaty to vegetarian, hot or cold, Dashi has something delicious for you.
Dos Perros
200 North Mangum Street; 919- 956-2750;dosperrosrestaurant.com
You literally can’t miss this bright yellow upscale Mexican restaurant. But don’t just look: go inside and get the chile relleno. And top off your meal with a margarita.
The Federal
914 West Main Street; 919-680-8611; thefederal.net
This comfy neighborhood bar features beers from around the world and simple food that hits the spot. Its late-night fare is rivaled only by its out-of-this-world specials. Also: the nachos could feed a small army. Also: get the veggie sliders!
Geer Street Garden
644 Foster Street; 919-688-2900; geerstreetgarden.com
Tucked away in a former Gulf gas station, Geer Street cooks up down-home food with a conscience, including pasture-raised beef for its burgers. On Wednesdays, drafts are $3.50.
GOORSHA
910 West Main Street; 919-588-4660; goorshadurham.com
In the Amharic language, goorsha refers to the act of feeding another person as an expression of love. This new Ethiopian restaurant has plenty of love on the menu, in the form of delicious injera, classic Ethiopian specialties, and plenty of vegan options, including yemisir kik, a red lentil dish.
GONZA TACOS Y TEQUILA
604 Fernway Avenue; 919-907-2656; gonzatacosytequila.com
Stop by this West Village joint for some delightful tacos, then follow them with a shot or two of tequila from Gonza’s wide selection.
KING’S SANDWICH SHOP
701 Foster Street; 919-682-0071; kingssandwichshop.com
Since 1942, King’s has provided food that hits the spot in Central Park. Nestled on the corner of Geer and Foster, it’s worth a quick stop either on your way to a ball game or in between work meetings. Splurge and get a milkshake. You deserve it.
LITTLER
110 East Parrish Street; 919-374-1118; littlerdurham.com
This dinner-only restaurant is smallit only seats thirty-sixbut it makes up for its size with a sophisticated, evolving food and drink menu. Reserve a dinner slot online.
LOAF
111 West Parrish Street; 919-797-1254; facebook.com/loafdurham/
This bakery has fresh bread and delectable treats to tide you over during the day. Stop by in the morning to pick up a croissant, then come back on your lunch break to grab a quick flatbread.
LUCKY’S DELICATESSEN
105 West Chapel Hill Street; 919-864-8841; luckysdelinc.com
Not only does Lucky’s have fresh sandwichesthe eggplant parm is everything right with the worldbut it also offers up-North deli staples like matzo ball soup and herbed gravlax. You’ll think you died and went to Jersey.
LUNA ROTISSERIE& EMPANADAS
112 West Main Street; 984-439-8702; lunarotisserie.com
Luna has some of the best empanadas around. But if you’re looking to shake your carnivorous ways, give the vegan chili-braised jackfruit patacon a try. (That’s jackfruit, slaw, cheese, and chili-lime mayo stacked between two plantains.)
M KOKKO
311 Holland Street, Suite B;919-908-9332; facebook.com/mkokkodurham/
Michael Lee’s second downtown Durham restaurantM Sushi was the firstfocuses on Korean fried chicken, chicken sandwiches, chicken-based ramen, and a few other things. (Just a few: there aren’t many items on the chalkboard menu.)
M SUSHI
311 Holland Street; 919-908-9266; msushidurham.com
This isn’t your average sushi place. It’s better than thatand well worth finding tucked away off East Chapel Hill Street. M Sushi focuses on an omakase-style dining experience, while providing some of the freshest seafood in the Triangle.
MATEO BAR DE TAPAS
109 West Chapel Hill Street;919-530-8700; mateotapas.com
Mateo’s small plates have garnered rave reviews, and the sangria (with Cheerwine!) is excellent. But the thing you really want here is the pan con tomate: bread, olive oil, tomato paste, and, if you’re feeling frisky, manchego. We can’t shut up about it.
MAYBELLE’SBISCUIT & BBQ
406 Blackwell Street; 984-219-6345; facebook.com/maybellesbbq/
At this new barbecue-and-biscuit joint in the American Tobacco Campus, you’ll find the staples: eastern North Carolina pulled pork barbecue, ribs, brisket, sides.
MOTHERS & SONS TRATTORIA
107 West Chapel Hill Street;919-294-8247; mothersandsonsnc.com
Mothers & Sons takes its inspiration from Italian families and seasonal fare. It also claims to be the first restaurant in the South to showcase handmade pasta.
NANASTEAK
345 Blackwell Street; 919-282-1183; nanasteak.com
Right next to DPAC, NanaSteak ranks among Durham’s premier steakhouses.
NINTH STREET BAKERY
136 East Chapel Hill Street;919-688-5606; ninthstbakery.com
Don’t let the name throw you off. This Bull City institution is smack-dab in the center of downtown. Stop by on your lunch break to snag a sandwich or pick up some fresh bread for the week.
OLD HAVANA SANDWICH SHOP
310 East Main Street; 919-593-4006; oldhavanaeats.com
Using locally sourced pork and produce, Old Havana offers up an authentic taste of Cuba in Durham.
PARKER & OTIS
112 South Duke Street;919-683-3200; parkerandotis.com
Nestled near Brightleaf Square, P&O offers sandwiches and salads to calm any hunger pang. And while you’re waiting for your food, take some time to peruse the eclectic mix of gifts and impulse buys.
THE PARLOUR
117 Market Street; 919-564-7999; theparlour.co
If you haven’t had The Parlour’s salted caramel ice cream in a waffle cone, you haven’t lived. You can pick up a pint for home, too.
PARTS & LABOR AT MOTORCO
723 Rigsbee Avenue; 919-901-0875; motorcomusic.com/eats
Smack in the Rigsbee Avenue corridor, across the street from The Pit and Fullsteam and adjacent to the Motorco music venue, P&L does bar food right. Good drinks, good beer, good prices. Get the pretzels.
PIEDMONT RESTAURANT
401 Foster Street; 919-683-1213; piedmontrestaurant.com
With locally sourced ingredients, Piedmont highlights chef John May’s Southern roots. The Firsthand Foods’ New York strip, with blue cheese, kale, and chimichurri, is almost legendary around here.
THE PIT
321 West Geer Street; 919-282-3748; thepit-durham.com
Like its Raleigh sister, this iteration of The Pit does whole hog barbecue in quintessential North Carolina fashion.
PIZZERIA TORO
105 East Chapel Hill Street;919-908-6936; pizzeriatoro.com
Don’t let the long lines scare you away. The inventively crafted wood-fired pizzaespecially the timberlake potato, bagna cauda, and pecorino pieis worth the wait.
POMPIERI PIZZA
102 City Hall Plaza; 919-973-1589; pompieripizza.com
Housed in a former fire station, Pompieri offers thin pies you cut with scissors and many locally sourced ingredients (including fresh mozzarella). Don’t get distracted by the fish.
RISE BISCUITS AND DONUTS
401 Foster Street; 984-439-2220; risebiscuitsdonuts.com
Not only does Rise have delicious donuts that make you question whether or not any other donut comes close, but it also features a wide selection of biscuit sandwiches.
ROSE’S noodles, dumplings and sweets
121 North Gregson Street;919-797-2233;rosesdurham.com
After four years of operating as a butcher’s market and pastry shop, Rose’s owners Katie and Justin Meddis decided to do something different. Earlier this year, they converted their Gregson Street digs into a sit-down, twenty-seat restaurant that focuses on local approaches and fresh ingredients. The commitment to quality, however, remains the same.
RUE CLER
401 East Chapel Hill Street; 919-682-8844; ruecler-durham.com
This Parisian restaurant’s menu changes frequently, but the moules frites and beignets are always great.
SCRATCH BAKING
111 Orange Street; 919-956-5200; piefantasy.com
It’s all in the name (and pie) at Scratch, which is known for serving up pies whole or by the slice. You’ll want to stop by early and often. If pies aren’t your thing, the lunch offerings are pretty great. The roasted sweet potato salad is almost perfect.
TABERNA TAPAS BAR
325 West Main Street;919-797-1457; tabernatapas.com
Can’t score a table at Mateo? Taberna offers killer small plates along with drink specials during the week, so you can indulge until your heart’s content. Don’t forget the flan.
TOAST PANINOTECA
345 West Main Street; 919-683-2183; toast-fivepoints.com
Don’t let the name fool you: Toast is more than just warm bread. Stop by for soup or a panini on your lunch break, or drop by for a crostini to snack on.
TORERO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT
800 West Main Street; 919-682-4197; torerosmexicanrestaurants.com
If you’re looking for something quick, cheap, and authentic, Torero’s Mexican food will satisfy.
VICEROY
335 West Main Street; 919-797-0413; viceroydurham.com
Viceroy has some British fare, but it leans heavily on its Indian roots, having been born from an Indian food truck. Make it a point to order the paneer.
DRINK
106 MAIN
106 East Main Street; 919-593-0560; 106main.com
With signature cocktails, a quality beer selection, and $3 wells on Thursdays, 106 Main is one of downtown’s best-kept secrets, offering a quieter, more intimate vibe than most of its competitors.
ARCANA BAR AND LOUNGE
331 West Main Street; 919-973-1675; arcanadurham.com
Arcana is a rare treat: a dim, cozy, casual, elegantly scruffy hideaway below street level, but one with unusually good bartenders. You can get a high-quality craft or classic cocktail (the Sazerac is dynamite) in a place that doesn’t make you feel like an investment banker, or spend like one. Lightly, not overbearingly, tarot themed, and furnished with a ragtag collection of vaguely Victorian couches and lamps, Arcana also hosts a lively series of events, from intimate dance parties to adventurous dance performances.
ACCORDION CLUB
316 West Geer Street; facebook.com/accordionclubdurham
A new kid on the Geer Street block, Accordion Club is a straightforward, affordable, and comfortable neighborhood bar that doesn’t quite qualify as a dive. There’s a stellar draft list and a wide assortment of bottles and cans, some of which are of the $2 Milwaukee variety. There’s liquor, too, but you won’t really find anyone ordering fancy cocktails. Have yourself a whiskey, neat.
ALLEY TWENTY SIX
320 East Chapel Hill Street; 984-439-2278; alleytwentysix.com
Featuring meticulously craftedread: priceycocktails, Alley Twenty Six is where you take a date for that pre-dinner drink or nightcap. It also features a full kitchen that whips up dishes like the Alley Burger (black truffle cheddar, bourbon bacon jam, arugula, chipotle aioli, foie gras if you want it).
ATOMIC FERN
108 East Parrish Street; 919-908-8662; atomicfern.com
The downtown social club is focused more on having a good time than offering specialty drinks in a glamorous setting. But it’s cheap, and we dig its board game selection.
THE BAR
711 Rigsbee Avenue; 919-956-2929; thebardurham.com
Durham’s premier LGBTQ bar has two distinct vibes: a neighborhood bar during the week and a full-on club on the weekends, with live DJs and plenty of dancing. Stop by for a drag show.
bar brunello
117 East Main Street; 919-294-4825; barbrunello.com
Owner Esteban Brunello certainly knows his wine. The Buenos Aires native is a bona fide expert, in fact, having worked at several of the Bay Area’s premier wine-focused restaurants and been named Rising Star Sommelier in 2013 by the culinary magazine StarChefs. His knowledgeand just as important, his unbridled passion for the stuffis evident at downtown’s newest wine bar.
BAR VIRGILE
105 South Mangum Street; 919-973-3000; barvirgile.com
Nestled in a cozy, classy space within eyeshot of DPAC, Bar Virgile makes some of the finest cocktails around. The Boulevardierlike a negroni, only with bourbon instead of ginis the best to ever pass our lips.
BEER DURHAM
404 Hunt Street #110; 919-680-0770; beerdurham.com
Not feeling the bar scene? No worries. Stop by Beer Durham any day of the week and pick up a growler of your favorite brew, or try something new.
BULL CITY CIDERWORKS
305 South Roxboro Street; 919-237-2357; bullcityciderworks.com
In spring 2017, a year after Bull City Ciderworks had to leave its Elizabeth Street digs to make way for a new police station, Durham’s premier cidery reopened on Roxboro Street, in a comfy space perfect for kicking back and sipping on an Off-Main cider.
CRITERION
347 West Main Street
Criterion features beer, booze, and a low-key atmosphere in Five Points. High-backed booths offer privacy from the usual barroom distractions, and the beer and whiskey offerings are right on.
COCOA CINNAMON
420 West Geer Street; 919-697-8990; cocoacinnamon.com
As much a work of art as a refueling station, Cocoa Cinnamon has become locals’ go-to for a morning pick-me-up. If you don’t know what to get or want to try something out of your coffee comfort zone, the baristas will guide you in the right direction.
DURTY BULL BREWING COMPANY
206 Broadway Street, #104; 919-688-2337; durtybull.com
One of Durham’s latest breweries is a bit off the beaten path, but it’s worth going for the unique brews (e.g., the rice IPA) and barrel-aged specialties.
FULLSTEAM BREWERY
726 Rigsbee Avenue; 919-682-2337; fullsteam.ag
A destination for newcomers and locals alike, Fullsteam focuses on local ingredients and a wide variety of stylesthe standby Paycheck Pilsner, sure, but also the sweet potato lager. The taproom has a beer option for even the snobbiest of connoisseurs. Its kitchen has a wonderful collection of inventive small plates and bar snacks.
PONYSAURUS BREWING COMPANY
219 Hood Street; 844-369-7669;ponysaurusbrewing.com
Terrific beers, a fantastic atmosphere, and a continuing rotation of terrific food trucks: you can’t go wrong with an evening at Ponysaurus. The taproom offers not just a bar with a wide variety of Ponysaurus beers (get the Scottish ale) as well as a few guest taps, but also a gorgeous outdoor setting with picnic tables and grills, so you can cook your own food while watching the game on one of the large flat screens. There are few more idyllic places to spend a warm summer night.
POUR TAPROOM
202 North Corcoran Street #200;919-251-8985; durham.pourtaproom.com
Go to the counter, let them swipe your card, get an orange wristband, grab a glass, and pick one of the dozens of drafts on the wall. Hold your wristband up to the tap; it will register how many ounces you’ve hadthe beers are charged by the ouncethen pour. Don’t go all in on a pint. That’s no fun. Sample a variety of three- or four-ounce pours. Then drop your wristband at the counter, and they’ll run your card (20 percent graituity included). It’s simple like that.
THE ROOF AT THE DURHAM HOTEL
315 East Chapel Hill Street; 919-768-8830; thedurham.com/roof
Take in the spectacular views of the ever-changing Durham skyline while imbibing at the (mostly) open-air rooftop bar. The rooftop offers some small plates, but if you’re looking for a full menu, venture downstairs to the hotel’s main restaurant.
SOCIAL GAMES & BREWS
1007 West Main Street; 919-666-7555; socialdurham.com
If you’re looking for skeeball, the right place to go in downtown is the Social. It has an impressive amount of space for all of your gaming needs and also hosts trivia and open-mic nights.
SURF CLUB
703 Rigsbee Avenue; 919-294-9661
Surf Club is Rigsbee Avenue’s laid-back neighborhood hang, fully equipped with shuffleboard, darts, bocce ball, and a pool table. With a killer beer selection, good whiskey aplenty, and a plethora of seating options, this is where to go when you don’t want to think about where to go.
SHOP
BULLDEGA URBAN MARKET
104 City Hall Plaza, #100;919-680-4682; bulldega.com
Styled after many larger city bodegas, Bulldega offers the convenience of a grocery store with the products of a farmers market. Stop by for a quick premade lunch, grab a missing ingredient for your dinner, or raid the well-stocked beer section.
BULLSEYE BICYCLE
102 Morris Street; 919-438-3883; bullseyebicycle.com
The centrally located bike shop offers a variety of brands and a helpful staff that can help you pick out your next set of wheels.
CHET MILLER
118 West Parrish Street; 919-683-3201; chetmillershop.com
For fans of Parker & Otis, Chet Miller offers a lot of the same options, just without the sandwiches. Nestled on historic Parrish Street, this shop purveys gifts for anyone you can think of.
DOLLY’S VINTAGE
213 West Main Street; 919-682-1471; facebook.com/dollysvintage
Dolly’s has an impressive mix of new and vintage with lots of Durham pride. Looking for a tweed coat for your next costume party and a gift for the host? Here you go.
EXOTIQUE
319 West Main Street; 919-688-5747; theexotique.com
Exotique is more than just an international clothing store. It highlights both local and international artists as well as handmade goods.
FIFI’S FINE RESALE APPAREL
1000 West Main Street;919-806-3434;facebook.com/FifisOfDurham
Brand-name clothing at a price that won’t jeopardize your rent payment? Head to Fifi’s.
LETTERS BOOKSHOP
313 West Main Street;919-973-2573; lettersbookshop.com
Letters offers a wide variety of booksand some pretty great discounts, tooand will help you special order something if needed. Serious bibliophiles should join the shop’s Same Page Club.
ROCK’S BAR AND HAIR SHOP
119 West Main Street; 919-956-7625; rocksdurham.com
Stop in downstairs for a walk-in appointment or schedule one in the upstairs barbershop. Either way, you get to chill out and enjoy a haircut with a cold craft beer.
RUNAWAY
212 West Main Street, #102; 919-213-1081; runawayclothes.com
Durham born and bred, Runaway encapsulates the city’s youthful grit.
SEVEN STARS CYCLES
104 West Parrish Street; 919-675-2435; sevenstarscycles.com
Seven Stars sets itself apart from other bike shops with its affordable rentals.
VERT & VOGUE
353 West Main Street; 919-797-2767; vertandvogue.com
Vert & Vogue has offerings for both men and women, from high-quality denim to housewares and skin care products.
PLAY
AMERICAN TOBACCO CAMPUS
318 Blackwell Street; 919-433-1566; americantobaccocampus.com
The site of a former tobacco warehouse exemplifies how you can reimagine the past. Former warehouses now hold restaurants, a movie theater, and even the local public radio station while also playing host to tech companies. Throughout the year, it’s the site of live concerts on the stage underneath the Lucky Strike Water Tower.
THE CAROLINA THEATRE
309 West Morgan Street; 919-560-3030; carolinatheatre.org
This city-owned historic theater hosts the Full Frame Documentary Film Festival and features an art-house cinema. It also brings comedians and concerts to the Triangle in a more intimate atmosphere than the DPAC.
DURHAM BULLS ATHLETIC PARK
409 Blackwell Street; 919-956-BULL; durhambulls.com
Baseball is America’s pastime, right? Well, in Durham, you can take in a game and enjoy a cold craft beer at the same time at the DBAP. Hit the bull, win a steak.
DURHAM CENTRAL PARK
501 Foster Street; 919-794-8194; durhamcentralpark.org
From food truck rodeos to the weekly farmers market to jazz shows to open-air movie nights, Durham Central Park has something for everyone.
DURHAM PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
123 Vivian Street; 919-680-2787; dpacnc.com
DPAC brings Broadway to the Bull City, hosting some of the top-rated shows in the country. (Hamilton is coming in the 2018–19 season!) It also hosts concerts and comedy performances.
MOTORCO MUSIC HALL
723 Rigsbee Avenue; 919-901-0875; motorcomusic.com
Motorco showcases everything from punk bands to community choruses; it’s one of the best places to see midlevel touring bands in Durham.
MUSEUM OF DURHAM HISTORY
500 West Main Street; 919-246-9993; museumofdurhamhistory.org
Stashed away in a former bus station, this treasure trove takes a different spin on Durham’s history, offering exhibits both inside and outside of the buildingcreating a museum without walls.
PINHOOK
117 West Main Street; 984-244-7243; thepinhook.com
Downtown’s premier punk rock venue does more than host shows; it’s also home to open mics, open jams, trivia, and queer dance parties. It puts together some of the best concerts in Durham, while also serving up great drinks.
QUARTER HORSE BAR & ARCADE
108 South Mangum Street; 919-973-1717; quarterhorsearcade.com
You drink and play classic arcade games and pinball, like you’re a kid again. Only you’re intoxicated.
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