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Demystifying food

On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen Harold McGee Scribner, 896 pp., $40 I first learned to cook at my grandmother’s knee (well, shoulder–she was pretty short), nagging for a chance to roll out the dough, turn the meat grinder’s crank, or fill the blintz. It was the school of intuitive […]

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Missing Julia

Looking forward to the demise of the ’00s, I was thinking back to when the ’50s expired–1961, when Mastering the Art of French Cooking came out. Or maybe it was 1963, when The French Chef went on the air. And so too, the ’00s will pass. The ’50s had been a dismal time for food […]

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Shooting at par

I’ve got a word problem. “When I use a word,” Humpty Dumpty said in a rather a scornful tone, “it means just what I choose it to mean–neither more nor less.” This Humpty Dumpty theory of language was rightly doubted by the redoubtable Alice. Certainly words don’t mean whatever I want them to. But that’s […]

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One Fish, Two Fish, No Fish

Old saws need sharpening. Give a man a fish and he’ll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish–and he’ll decimate the marine populations, farm-raise inferior and unhealthful fish, pollute land and water, and destroy coastal ecosystems. Oh yes, and he’ll create export commodity bubbles in poor communities across the world. Not pithy, this […]

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Peasable kingdom

My south is the South Bronx, where Southern cooking was not on the menu. Peas were fresh, green, round and came in bright, green pods. When I got sophisticated–that is, when I ventured south–I learned of black-eyed peas and greens. I also learned of moo shu pork and lamb vindaloo and other culinary delights down […]

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Read it and eat

My first cookbook, well-thumbed and food-stained, was one I both wrote and published. I was 11, and it was plagiarized from my mother’s recipe drawer and badgered from her brain. I wasn’t culinarily motivated–I was taking a typing class and transcribing recipes seemed like good practice, more purposeful than copying random passages out of books. […]

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From Cud to Curd

Paul Nabhan, in his fascinating book Coming Home to Eat, records a year devoted to eating foods grown, raised, or fished within a 200 mile radius of his house near Phoenix. Eating local is not an easy thing to do, although easier, say, in Naples than in Nome. While it’s generally too ambitious for me, […]

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Cookbook rehab

Some cookbooks languish on my shelf because I don’t like them, even if I once did. Some languish because they were training wheels. Some languish because I don’t do a lot of Indian cooking anymore. But most languish for no conscious reason. Every now and then, as I rummage through my shelves, a few venerable […]

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