The Durham 315 East Chapel Hill Street, Durham www.thedurham.com If you could steal one recipe from a local restaurant or bakery or bar, what would it be? Go on, name it! We’re collecting requests at [email protected], then publishing our favorite finds here. This week, The Durham’s chef, Andrea Reusing, is sharing all the secrets of […]
Emma Laperruque
Bio: Emma Laperruque is a freelance writer. She writes about food at www.dourmet.com.
You Don’t Need a Storefront to Run a Popular Bakery, But a Wood-Burning Oven Helps
Julia Blaine always walked by the same bakery on her way home from work in Barcelona. The streets were shadowed by black skies, but the shop glowed with bakers flickering like fireflies as they prepared the bread she would buy the next day. Julia, who moved to Spain after graduating college, worked as a bartender, […]
The Cortez Slays with Fresh Flavors and Trippy Vibes
The Cortez Seafood + Cocktail 413 Glenwood Avenue, Raleigh www.cortezraleigh.com I wade through an ocean of superheroes, zombies, and sexy cats to find The Cortez. (Why, I can’t help but wonder, are there never sexy dogs?) A piratesparkly, with a dagger strapped to her left armgreets my friend and me at the door, which bleeds […]
Sick of Salmon? There Are Plenty More Fish in the Sea.
I was having déjà vu while sitting at a relatively new restaurant in Raleigh, slurping oysters. A couple of months earlier, this was at St. Roch, Sunny Gerhart’s debut restaurant. This time, I was at The Cortez (see the full review on page 14). In Durham, meanwhile, someone is having a similar meal at St. […]
Don’t Sleep On Those Turkey Leftovers
The go-to rule for buying turkey is: one pound per person. But this forgets the most important part, right? The leftovers. If there aren’t at least a couple of pounds of extra meat post holiday, you’re doing it wrong. Thanksgiving is all about excess. That way, you can have your kitchen-sink sandwichyou know, with the […]
MOFU Shoppe Brings a Whimsical Fusion To a Meaty Menu
MOFU Shoppe 321 South Blount Street, Raleigh www.mofushoppe.com Everyone around me is eating tacos. The man to my right. The man to my left. The woman sitting across from him. Which means I inevitably want tacos, too. I want crispy fried flounder, charred flour tortillas, and squiggles of cilantro sour cream. We are toward the […]
Cook This: Three Recipes for a Saucy Carolina Pantry Staple
Farmer’s Daughter’s five-ounce bottle of sweet potato-habanero hot sauce starts in a 100-liter, stainless steel wine barrel. First, April McGregerwho started the home-based business of pickles and preserves in 2007chops up habanero and ahi dulce peppers. The latter, she explains, “are sweet and red, with a fruitiness similar to a habanero but not as hot.” […]
Chefs Explain Why Their Tattoos are Symbolic, Food-Related or Not
I got my first tattoo when I was twenty-one. This wasn’t kosher in my family, whose older generations associated ink with being rejected from a Jewish cemetery and not getting a job. The catch was, I want to be cremated, and I didn’t buy that the industry I aspired towardfood publishingwould care. After all, most […]
At St. Roch, an Ashley Christensen Protégé Replaces Joule with Surprising Cajun Oysters and Outstanding Cocktails
ST. ROCH FINE OYSTERS + BAR 223 South Wilmington Street, Raleigh 919-322-0359, www.strochraleigh.com You can tell a lot about raw oysters by the company they keep. At most bars, it’s one or two old friends, say, Tabasco or horseradish. At St. Roch in Raleigh, it’s a party. Cocktail sauce and mignonette, lemon wedges and pickled […]
Drink This: Panciuto’s Milkshake Brings All the Pawpaws to the Yard
Panciuto 110 South Churton Street, Hillsborough 919-732-6261 www.panciuto.com I remember walking through my neighborhood ten years ago and seeing this tree on the side of the street in someone’s yard,” Aaron Vandemark says. “It had these large, green, mango-looking lobes, and I thought, What the hell are those?” They were pawpaws. And that, for many […]

