This is our second dispatch from the North Carolina State Fair. For a line-up of all of the new fair foods this year, read our first one here.

The gate into the N.C. State Fair fairgrounds acts as a funnel. Once inside, the crowds peel off into various directions. Some go for the rides and games on the midway, some make a beeline for the gardens or the livestock. But for me and my family, a day at the N.C. State Fair is built around a near hourly itinerary of noshing on standby treats and new fair food favorites.

We begin at Al’s French Fries, which was founded in 1959 by Al Beckwith. These days, Al’s deep-fried dream is kept alive by his daughter, Debbie Beckwith Anderson, her two brothers, and their families. They continue to turn out fries that would make a potato farmer weep with joy and pride. And I’m not alone in my reverence and affection—for the past two years, they’ve won the People’s Choice Award for best fair food. These fries are crispy, salty, and hot enough to burn both your fingers and tongue, but it’s impossible to wait. It’s okay though, because they’re so worth the pain.

Last year we discovered the Amish Baking Company and its epic, fresh, warm glazed doughnuts that are literally as big as your head. They’re beloved by both Krispy Kreme fans (me), and Dunkin’ fans (my deluded spouse). Though the name has changed to Peachey’s (look for them behind Dorton Arena, right across from the PBS attraction), they’re even better than I remembered. 

Next is lunch at Granny’s Country Kitchen. Though it’s an off-menu item, those in the know ask for the fried green tomato sandwich which comes slathered with freshly made pimento cheese, and is perfect for sharing with my kid. My husband goes for the hubcap-sized chicken fried steak, and everybody gets an order of pinto beans, seasoned perfectly and cooked till tender. There’s no bad choice here; the food is fresh, homemade, delicious, and a great value.

Then it’s time for a shared treat, a new-to-fair item from Hickory Tree BBQ: The “Crack-n-Cheese” waffle cone. A strata of Southern comfort food, first is a layer of creamy mac and cheese, covered with a helping of turkey barbecue, topped with coleslaw, and finished with turkey skin cracklins and a drizzle of bracing, vinegary barbecue sauce. It may sound like the drunkest of drunk food, but each component is well done and the sauce perfectly cuts the richness.

For a light dinner, we’ll head to Ragin’ Cajun, which is debuting two new hushpuppies this year. One is a country ham and cheddar pup topped with molasses butter, the other is destined to be a new classic: Chocolate chip hushpuppies. If that wasn’t exciting enough, it’s drenched in what I’m told is a classic Southern condiment—chocolate gravy. I didn’t think it was possible to love gravy more than I do, but then they went and made it chocolate.

Then it’s time to go, but not without an edible souvenir. Every year, I take home a pound of fudge from All-American Fudge in the new Marketplace building, next to the N.C. State ice cream stand. Lots of vendors sell fudge at the fair, but don’t let them turn your head. Some fudge is creamy and bland, the kind that can be made in a microwave with jarred marshmallow cream. But classic, traditional fudge has body and a unique mouth feel, with what candy makers and scientists call a microcrystalline texture. This is that fudge. The kind of old school, Victorian house party fudge I image they’d make after a rousing game of hide the slipper.

On the way out I stop at the Kerr Scott building for one last treat, a muscadine slushie from D’Vine Foods to slurp on the way home. Muscadines are hardy grapes that are native to the Southeast and possess thick, inedible skins and sweet flesh. Until Prohibition, they were the grapes most used in wine, but in a slushie, they bring a balanced sweet-sour tang and icy cold refreshment.

You know it’s been a good day at the fair if you end up with sore feet and a full belly. When we get home, I triple-wrap my precious fudge, tuck it into the freezer, and ration it throughout the year as balm for the bad days and celebration for the good ones.

Finally, I sit down in my pajamas and put up my feet, and nibble the one small piece of fudge that didn’t make it into the freezer.