
The theme for our latest food-focused DISH issue was comfort food, which we instinctively gravitated to in an uncomfortable year. Weโre hardwired to crave salt, sugar, fat, and carbs, and many of our most memorable Bites of the Week were full of the stuff.
Frozen treats dominated. There were the ice cream sandwiches: Locopopsโ ginger-molasses-cookie and Roseโs Noodles Dumplings & Sweetsโ blueberries-and-cream. There were the scoops: Andiaโs Homemade Ice Creamโs Dark Indulgence, its dark chocolate ribboned with peanut butter and scattered with Reeseโs Peanut Butter Cups; Two Roostersโ Sea Salt Chip Cookie Dough, in which Southern Sugar Bakeryโs cookie dough elevates vanilla ice cream to something sensational; and M Tempuraโs orange buttermilk sorbet with a shiso leaf chaser, which struck us as a grown-up take on an orange creamsicle. And there was the sundae at Crawford and Son, a disc of chocolate shortbread topped with smoked cacao-nib ice cream, chocolate mousse, and toasted meringue.
Savory highlights included a sampling of dishes inspired by Southern comfort food. There was Iylaโs Southern Kitchenโs BBQ โSundae,โ where a smoked-cheddar mac โnโ cheese base comes topped with pulled pork, collard greens, and a barbecue-sauce drizzle; Jack Tarโs fried chicken, in which Nashville hot chicken detours through China with a Szechuan peppercorn-infused oil; and a duo of bar snacks at Saint James Seafood: cornmeal-dusted N.C. shrimp and Geechie Boy cornmeal hushpuppies.
We self-soothed with beverages, too, which may have coincided with the launch of our Day Drinker beer column. We loved Glass Jug Beer Labโs OโMalley’s Kilt, a crisp, light Scottish ale with a nutty aftertaste and honeyed finish, as well as its Cryo Opacity, a hazy New England IPA with citrus and pine notes. Funguys Brewingโs Paula Street was a pleasing pale ale with a creamy mouthfeel and pithy, citrus-peel finish, and Crank Arm Brewingโs refreshing, bracing Tight Cassette made for a fine palate-cleanser between sips.
Four Food Buzzwords Weโre Putting on Notice
Craft Donโt get us wrong; we think itโs great that more people care about where their food and drinks are coming from. But like most buzzwords, โcraftโ is losing its luster and meaning through wanton application. Plus, people are getting a little craft crazy: Some of the drinks we tried this year were memorable because, frankly, they were kind of weird. Among the many delicious local craft beers we sampled were others that tasted like Margherita pizza, Flintstones chewable childrenโs vitamins, and potpourri. A little creativity goes a long way, yโall. And weโd much rather make our own cocktails using Durham Distilleryโs excellent Conniption gin than sip a gin and tonic from its new line of canned cocktails.
House-Made See also โartisanalโ and โhand-crafted.โ If you ever edit a food section, youโll notice how often you have to write these words, and you may start wondering what they even mean, especially now that they crop up on corporate snack-food packages and fast-food menus. Even at McDonald’s, meals are prepared in-house by people who are using their hands. Unless thereโs a fine-dining restaurant outsourcing food from robots that we donโt know about, we think we can all give these blurry bona fides a rest.
Farm-to-Table Weโre definitely not against the farm-to-table concept. We salute those who diligently source or grow their ingredients locally and sustainably. It tastes better, and itโs better for our bodies, the local economy, and the planet. But just because something grows in the dirt doesnโt make it farm-to-table, and just because a restaurant lists a couple farms on its menu doesnโt mean the rest of its ingredients arenโt trucked in. Itโd be great to get to a point where menus donโt need to list the pH level of the lettuceโs soil and farm-to-table was just the standard, not a shibboleth. Until then, itโs worth keeping an eye on what it actually means.
Gourmet Specifically, weโre looking at you, gourmet burgers. We love a good burger, and we get that premium ingredients cost more. But when the price starts creeping up toward the $18 mark, we need more than the magic G-word to convince us to shell out. If โgourmetโ is just an overused euphemism for โexpensive,โ maybe we should just get back to basics.ย


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