Like many food trends, poke, the latest culinary phenomenon to hit the Triangle, is rooted in cultural tradition. Pronounced POH-keh, Hawaii’s versatile raw-fish “fast food” dish is typically made of ahi tuna or “tako” (octopus). But how rooted in authenticity is North Carolina’s poke? And does it matter? Scott Kleczkowski, who owns One Fish Two […]
Kim Lan Grout
Posted inFood & Drink
Sneak a Taste of Grandma Scal’s Secret Italian Recipe in Oak City Amaretto
Anthony Scalabrino’s story is a good ol’ American story. His grandmother, Giacamo “Jenny” Scalabrino, or Grandma Scal as the family calls her, was the daughter of Sicilian immigrants who found a new home in Michigan. Her husband (Scalabrino’s grandfather) played football on an All-America high school team alongside future U.S. president Gerald Ford, was a […]
Posted inGuides
Gotta Start Somewhere
Our local Triangle chefs are so good at what they do, one might assume their journeys to their respective kitchens were dogged and single-minded. But the truth is often quite the contrary. So what does it take to reach gastronomic stardom? For chef Michael Lee of M Sushi, the path did begin in food service: […]
Posted inArt
Arts Access Flips the Standard Line on Artists with Disabilities by Celebrating the Art, Not the Disabilities
A SERIES OF FORTUNATE EVENTS Thursday, May 4–Wednesday, May 31, $10–$40 Various venues, Raleigh www.fortunateevents.org The title “A Series of Fortunate Events” seems obvious and kitschy. I hear it, I learn that it’s organized by people with disabilities, I see what they did there. Proud and disabled myself, I’m initially skeptical that the Arts Access […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Jewish Food Has Gotten Hip. But If You Go Back Far Enough, It’s Always Been Fusion.
Just as family gathers for a meal, Jews and non-Jews alike converged on Sunday at UNC-Chapel Hill for the Jewish Food in the Global South Symposium, together exploring the complexity of Jewish foodwhat it is, where it’s from, and, perhaps most hotly debated, to whom it now belongs. The first event of its kind, hosted […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Orange Is the New Red at Bar Brunello, a Wine Bar with Unpretentious Durham Style
BAR BRUNELLO 117 East Main Street, Durham www.barbrunello.com Much like Bar Lusconi, formerly in the same spot, Bar Brunello is deliberately free of frills. Save for a few square feet of white subway tile framed by dark grout, à la the cover of Pink Floyd’s The Wall, the space is bare and no longer than […]
Posted inFood & Drink
We Beg Local Bartenders to Mix Us Moody Winter Cocktails with Bittersweet Cynar
If you think you haven’t tried Cynar (pronounced chee-nar), you’re probably wrong. Local bartenders are building cocktails using this versatile Italian amaro, which packs a powerful punch as Campari’s kid brother. The underrated liqueur is slowly joining the trendy ranks of Fernet and Aperol, lending graceful depth and complexity to cocktails with its bitter, buttery […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Unpacking the Great Pho Appropriation Debacle of 2016
Last month, Bon Appetit published a video in which Tyler Akin, a white male chef at Stock, a Vietnamese restaurant in Philadelphia, sent thousands of Southeast Asian pho eaters into a collective eye roll. Akin explained the “right” way to eat pho, Vietnam’s aromatic signature soup made of beef bone broth, rice noodles, and a […]
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