My friends and family may be tired of me waxing on about this summer’s heirloom tomatoes, but I can’t help it. The flavor is that remarkable, and I never tire of eating them.
Any recipe you use fresh tomatoes for can become sublime by trying different varieties, such as Green Zebra, Sun Gold, Brandywine, Purple Cherokee and Striped German. The names themselves sound like code for undercover spy operations or titles of obscure pagan gods. Their flavor differences are nuanced enough to stand apart from each other subtly like distinct wines from the same grape or blend together richly in a salsa or uncooked pasta sauce (like a cuvée).
The following recipe is inspired by a salad I had in mid-July at Raleigh’s 18 Seaboard. As I write, this appetizer is not included on their online menu, so I suspect it depends on tomatoes’ availability and quality in restaurant quantities. It was so delicious that I almost stopped my entrée order in favor of seconds on the salad. That said, while the dog days linger, this dish served with sturdy bread and summer ale can be a welcome center of a no-cook meal, maybe alongside cold chicken and olives.