Madison Tessener, chef de cuisine, Jolie 

Madison Tessener always knew she’d come home to Raleigh. 

The chef and North Carolina native worked in celebrated Charleston kitchens like Fig and Chez Nous for a decade before returning to Raleigh last year, when her sister had twins. Soon after, Scott Crawford brought her on to the Crawford Hospitality team and, upon opening his new French bistro Jolie, named Tessener chef de cuisine. 

These days things are pretty quiet at Jolie, but Crawford has recruited Tessener to temporarily help with Crawford Curbside. The takeout menu, Tessener says, splits the balance between fine-dining and comfort with plenty of “bright, healthy options” to keep people feeling healthy during an uncertain time. 

“We pivoted very quickly, and luckily, it was really well received,” Tessener says of the takeout menu. “We’ve had a good time, and I feel really lucky that I’ve been able to go to work and keep some normalcy.”

For those looking to bring some practical French romance into their quarantine, Tessener suggests crepes. They’re “something fun and different” that people don’t always necessarily think to try at home.

This makes sense: Bread-baking may have had its moment in the limelight, but a batch of crepe batter can be stored in the fridge and whipped out as an easy (but novel) meal supplement. They’re naturally elegant and can easily serve as a flexible base for a sweet or savory meal. 

Of note, the Jolie chef also says that Buckwheat four (included in the recipe below) is usually available at grocery stores and adds an “earthy” flavor. She also suggests turning crepes into a dessert by filling them with the original comfort food: Nutella. 

“We’re really thankful that the community has supported us as we’ve pivoted and we’re very grateful that the community supported all restaurants,” Tessener says of Crawford Hospitality. “And we hope that we continue to get through as we navigate this. Nobody knows what it’s like on the other side. But we’re really excited to create an environment that’s going to be safe and delicious, even if it’s going to be a little different than before.”

Madison Tessener’s crepes 

Ingredients

· 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 2 1⁄2 cups water

· 1 1⁄4 cups all-purpose flour

· 1 cup buckwheat flour

· 1⁄2 cup milk

· 2 large eggs

· 1 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt

· 1 1⁄2 teaspoon sugar

· Pan spray

Instructions

  • In a blender, combine all of the ingredients and pulse for 10 seconds. Place the crepe batter in the refrigerator for 1 hour, or up to 2 days.
  • Heat a small non-stick pan. Coat with pan spray. Pour 1 ounce of batter into the center of the pan and swirl to spread evenly. Cook for 1 minute until the crepe releases from pan. Flip crepe onto parchment paper, and lay out to cool. After they have cooled you can stack them, and store in sealable plastic bags in the refrigerator for several days.
  • For a sweet variation add 2 teaspoons of sugar and 1 teaspoon of vanilla

Contact deputy arts and culture editor Sarah Edwards at [email protected].

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Sarah Edwards is culture editor of the INDY, covering cultural institutions and the arts in the Triangle. She joined the staff in 2019 and assumed her current role in 2020.