Capp’s Pizzeria The Veranda at Briar Chapel 79 Falling Springs Drive, Chapel Hill www.cappspizzeria.com Call me a Pizza Pollyanna or Candide of Crust. I have repeatedly announced a new “best” pizza in the Triangle. There was the now-defunct Bella Mia, then Pizzeria Toro, then Pompieri, then Treforni, then Napoli, the plucky Carrboro-based food truck. I […]
David A. Ross
Bio: David Ross is a freelance food writer. He teaches at UNC and lives in Chapel Hill.
Posted inFood & Drink
Napoli Gourmet Pizza’s Roving Truck Slings the Best Pies in the Triangle
NAPOLI GOURMET PIZZA Nightly across from Harris Teeter at 203 N Greensboro St, Carrboro A scene from the dark ages of Triangle pizza: “Do you have anything hot?” “Everything’s hot.” “Fresh out of the oven?” “Everything comes out of the oven.” “I mean out of the oven in the last twenty minutes … OK, forget […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Boulted Bread’s Levain Achieves Old-World Perfection in Raleigh
Boulted Bread 614 West South Street, Raleigh The machine age pummeled what social critic William Morris called “the arts of life.” In News from Nowhere (1890), Morris envisioned a future in which the loss of these arts had gone so far that rural villagers “had even forgotten how to bake bread.” The processed banality that […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Embrace the Heat at Szechuan Garden
Szechuan Garden 10285 Chapel Hill Road, #300, Morrisville Sucking the chili oil sheen from a frog’s leg, my Taiwanese wife gives Zengming Chen her highest accolade: “He could survive in Taipei.” To survive in Taipei is to soar in the Triangle. Chen has long beenand remainsthe Triangle’s best Chinese chef. Chen arrived from Philadelphia in […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Prized, Pricey Pie: Carrboro’s Pizzeria Mercato Reestablishes the Barker Family Among the Triangle’s Best
Pizzeria Mercato 408 W. Weaver St., Carrboro “I have a chef friend who’s eaten here four straight nights,” exclaims the woman at the table next to mine. The statement is meant to astonish, but the server merely nods. Had the woman said, “I have a chef friend who liquidated his 401(k) so he can eat […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Captain Poncho’s scores a spicy landing in Southern Village
Captain Poncho’s 706 Market St., Chapel Hill 919-697-2237, www.captainponchos.com Round about 2010, Captain Poncho’s taco truck became a fixture on Carrboro’s Merritt Mill Road. Lured by hand-pressed tortillas and fat-swimming meats burbling in heirloom sauces, hardhats working on the Greenbridge condominium ambled over for thousand-calorie lunches. UNC bound, I spent many a guilty quarter-hour wolfing […]
Posted inFood & Drink
The secret behind Weaver Street’s miche bread
The Michelin-caliber origami at Chapel Hill’s [One] Restaurant is lovely, but the local meal that haunts me is a shepherd’s snack: a wedge of Weaver Street Market’s miche slathered with a creamy mountain-born cheese. The bread must be fresh. I recommend arriving at Weaver Street on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday or Sunday at around 5 p.m. […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Cafe Symmetry: Health food hits Carrboro
Cafe Symmetry 200 N. Greensboro St., Carr Mill Mall, Carrboro919-903-9596 www.cafesymmetry.com Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m.–10 p.m., (dinner service ends at 9), Friday–Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Elmo’s Diner long ago locked in a potent commercial formula: a downtown Carrboro location with ample parking; warehouse space that humors Carrboro’s franchise-averse bourgeois bohemians (aka BOBOS); eclectic Southern/Tex-Mex menu that […]
Posted inFood & Drink
Carrboro eatery Calavera does a few things—empanadas, tequila—and does them well
Calavera Empanada & Tequila Bar 370 E. Main St. #180, Carrboro 919-617-1674 www.calaveraempanadas.com Monday–Thursday, 4 p.m.–midnight; Friday–Saturday, 4 p.m.–2 a.m. The West Franklin-Carrboro corridor has birthed a national storyline about the sleepy college town that sets an example of organic, locally sourced cooking for the otherwise hydrogenated South. Though laudable, the program has become a […]
Posted inFood & Drink
The quest to create the nostalgic comfort of a legendary Baker Soup
My eight years in New Haven, Connecticutfour as an undergraduate and another four as a newspaper reporterended in a hail of bullets and a falling body. The former redecorated my apartment lobby, the latter plummeted past my eighth-floor balcony at 3 a.m. New Haven, at least during the early ’90s, was that kind of town. […]
You must be logged in to post a comment.